Friday, September 22, 2006

August 15, Qingdao

We went to the temple of the goddess of heaven, who is also the goddess of the sea. It was a colorfully painted temple with swirly, distinctly Chinese paintings of scenes from old tales of deities, and intricate patterns. Tour groups crowded the temple and were each being led by a fast-talking tour guide holding a flag and talking through a megaphone. Tour groups were coming in, forming so quickly that there was hardly a moment of silence between when one megaphone moved on and the next came to take its place. The groups crowded around the important places, took their pictures and were hurried along to the next site.
Each hall of the temple was uniquely decorated. In the entrance, was a wooden peacock carved out of the stump and roots of a fallen tree, the fused and tangled roots polished into feathers. One room had hundreds of statues painted brightly, guarding a goddess with many arms. Another room was full of monks in robes sitting at tables with magical items, waiting to tell people their fortunes. Another hall had a Buddha in a glass box filled to his neck in worn out paper money of little value, each with a picture of Mao; a display of China's two important philosophies.

On the shore by a busy street and below a wide sidewalk was an old shipwrecked fishing boat with half its hull worn away by time. Old men walked along the rocks looking for crabs to eat or put sell. Where the shipwreck sat was surely in view of where the 2008 Olympic sailing games will be held.

In the old German section of town are large buildings with red tiled roofs and Roman style pillars in the entranceways. Inside, you can see that the wooden stairs are no longer level, and just as you wonder if it is abandoned, a well dressed girl with high heels and a shiny purse walks out.

We came across a park full of old men playing cards and Chinese Chess. Each game was surrounded by a wall of passers by who all seemed to take sides and give advice freely. With each move, the old men would slam their piece on the board, and for a decisive move, they would put their pieces down with even more force to make an even louder noise. The advice coming from the crowd made it a team sport and made sure it would be a good game. Just before each round ended, when it became obvious who had won, the crowd smiled and chuckled. All around, people seem to be enjoying themselves. China seems to have a slow pace and support ample leisure time.

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